Sunday 24 February 2019

Catalan Castaway Review


When my friend Kyle and I began talking about the idea of sailing from Gibraltar to Istanbul in a sailing dinghy, one of my first impulses was to find others who had already done it. It was during that search I encountered Ben Crawshaw, an ex-patriate Brit living in Catalonia who built a plywood skiff to sail and row around the western Mediterranean. I first encountered his six-part mini YouTube documentary covering his trip to the Balearic Islands and back, and this led me to his blog, which ended suddenly and without explanation four years ago. And then, googling his name to find out what the hell happened to him, I found out he’d published a book, Catalan Castaway.

            I was surprised when the book arrived. It was smaller than I’d anticipated, and the long horizontal layout seemed strange for a narrative documenting building and sailing a small boat. The rationale for this was apparent upon reading Ben’s Forward – this book is his blog in print, complete with photographs. He’d been approached by Lodestar Books, which speaks a little to Ben’s one-time presence on the net within the small-boat community.
            I admit I was initially disappointed with this blog-cum-book. I’d been expecting a narrative, not an epistolary account, and I felt a bit as though I’d been tricked. The bad impression didn't last long.
            Catalan Castaway opens with an introduction / disclaimer by the boat’s designer, Gavin Atkin, who lauds Ben as a person (this is pretty common from everyone who knows Ben, actually) and warns the reader against following his example. Atkin notes that his design was “being tested in a way [he] hadn’t anticipated and couldn’t approve of” and is surprised that “somehow Ben has survived his adventures” despite sailing in a “small, narrow flat-bottomed boat that isn’t designed for rough weather and strong winds.” Although Atkin hasn’t yet built his design, he assures readers that when he does, he will “sail it cautiously on the kinds of sheltered waters for which it was intended.” Despite so many repeated warnings within the body of a very short forward, there’s also a definite sense that Atkin not only likes Ben immensely, but has also enjoyed living vicariously through him in his adventures.
            The blog dressed in book’s clothing opens with Ben launching his boat, the Onawind Blue, through the surf of the beach in front of his house in Catalonia. The difficulties of launching through this surf are a returning theme in this book. Over the next chapters Ben goes through a series of trials and sail configurations as he learns what works best for Onawind Blue and fights with his budget to outfit her. It doesn’t take him long before he starts properly cruising, sailing along the coast and camping ashore in the sand, and later with an improvised tent over his dinghy. There’s enough food and wine to make the reader hungry and a little jealous, but also enough hangovers to make the reader glad it’s Ben and not them.

            Pages of rudder adjustments and broken tholepins culminate in Ben’s big trip to the Balearic Islands, where he gets to put some of his sailing and all of his rowing skills to the test as he’s repeatedly becalmed for hours. The main theme of this part of the book, and one that he deals with more specifically in his six-part YouTube videos, is fear. “Fear is a Giant Octopus,” Ben writes, and describes his pre-trip jitters:

Physically I was fine. Long hours of rowing, running, swimming and weightlifting with my local rowing team had left me in better shape than ever. I knew I had the stamina and the physical reserves and that I could handle the lack of sleep. But what was unsettling was my high state of nervousness. Though my stomach felt hollow it was full of dread.

I was struck by the overwhelming fear expressed in Ben’s videos, and also with his honesty and openness about it. In the philosophy of courage, there’s a repeated mantra that bravery isn’t a lack of fear, but rather the will to overcome it. From this perspective, courage cannot exist without fear, and a person without fear is only reckless, not brave. To be afraid of something worth acting upon and be defeated by fear is actual cowardice.
            By this estimation, I would esteem Ben Crawshaw as a brave individual, and his fear may only be a sense of timidity inspired by a lack of faith in something – maybe himself at the time of his crossing. I can’t say a lack of self-confidence, because Ben also appears to be an incredibly confident, affable and open person. Atkin describes Ben as “not just a great sailor, adventurer and writer,” but also “charming an interesting” who “has the great gift of being sociable.” Ben’s own thoughts on the subject are interesting, but go largely without resolution, except that by committing to sail he overcomes the fear that holds him back.
            As it turns out, facing his fear of disappearing at sea on his solitary trip was a dry run for what comes next: Ben gets cancer. There’s not much in the book after this, but I’m going to spoil the end and say that Ben defeats his second Giant Octopus too.
            The book / blog is well-written and the colourful Catalan coastline make for terrific photos. Ben is a reader, and it shows-through in his writing. He mentions Patrick O’Brian’s Aubrey and Maturin series, the Donald Crowhurst tragedy, and other books and authors that are well-known to thallassophiles everywhere. There’s enough nautical terminology here to properly illustrate the narrative, but I don’t think a land-lubber reader would get lost or feel the writing is polluted with jargon. While most of the writing is designed to recount specific events and speculate on possible future endeavours, there are also the occasional truly beautiful prose passage that speaks something of the artist in Ben.

            Where the book may suffer is its format. There are virtues to the blog presentation; the future is unknown chapter to chapter, leaving the narrator as un-omniscient as the reader; because of this, each chapter appears honest and unadjusted for how things actually turned out; the reader may have more of a vicarious experience and feel closer to the writer because of this. On the other hand, speculation about things that never happen begins to feel wearing, and small problems that are important to each chapter eventually become boring. It didn’t take me long before I expected there to be a problem beaching the Onawind Blue through the surf, or for a tholepin to break every trip. I was intrigued by the archaic tholepins before I read Catalan Castaway – there was a set hanging on the wall inside the barn when I was growing up, and my father explained them to me- but I can now say with certainty that I’ll never, ever use them.

             I learned a lot from Ben’s adventures with Onawind Blue that I’ll apply to Eurydice and hopefully eventually transfer to the Mediterranean trip. Most of all, I was inspired by Ben’s willingness to experiment with his boat. He tried different sail plans, rudders, rigging, and a variety of woods for his tholepins. He was constantly trimming, so to speak, until he reached a fine point of sailing.
            And by the way – Ben appears to be doing fine, despite dropping off the face of the earth. By the end of his blog he seems to become a commercial fisherman, and he's penning lyrics these days for his partner Monica’s band. I can only hope that someday Ben's blog The Invisible Workshop flashes back to life with new updates. I enjoyed reading both it and the book version - which is admittedly not quite the same thing - immensely. 

Saturday 23 February 2019

The Hull


The real work on Eurydice began in the summer of 2017, when I tackled her damaged hull. A lifetime of gouges, dings, scratches and shoddy repairs had left her quite a mess. Her deck was entirely loose from her hull in some places, and some screws had been passed entirely through her without considering the effects – all in all, it was pretty clear that she’d been treated poorly over the years. I sanded for days, filled, and sanded some more. I went through buckets of bondo.

            I got to try my fiber-glassing skills out again where the gunwales had detached from the hull. I pop-riveted the two pieces together along their lengths to hold them tight, then went to work with strips of cloth and resin. It turns out that I’m terrible at fiber-glassing, and frustration with my shoddy workmanship and the blazing sun reinforces a bad habit of drinking Malibu rum on the rocks while I work. This leads to even poorer work; and yet, with enough layers of fiberglass, buckets of Bondo, and sheets of sandpaper, I was able to make the whole thing stick together. In some places, such large pieces were missing that I had to make molds from tape and pour new parts.
            I don’t know much about paint, and choosing one was difficult. Long hours of googling and watching videos on YouTube helped, but in the end I went to Mahone Marine and bought Petit, a quality marine-grade paint that’s easy to apply. This is the only purchase of its nature I’ve made for Eurydice, and the only one I intend to. Everything else has been done at the lowest possible cost, but I want the work I’m putting into her to be reflected in her sharp appearance.
            I built a sort of rickety tent shelter over Eurydice, wiped her down with alcohol, and rolled-on some coats of white primer. The difference was stunning. With the primer, she took on a new dimension. Gone were the contrasting layers of paint and patches – now she was a cohesive unit.

            I’d chosen a sort of electric blue for the topside paint, and YouTubers had shown me that the “roll-and-tip” method would probably work best for me. I went to work with a roller and a foam brush, rolling on a foot of paint at a time and then gently smoothing out the roller marks with the brush tip dipped lightly in thinner. My friend Robin helped with the first coat, but I was able to do subsequent ones on my own. The results were incredible, but working outside meant the inevitable bit of debris or insect in the paint.

          Greg came to the rescue again, offering me the use of his storage tent for the final coat. I sanded-out the imperfections, loaded Eurydice onto a boat trailer I’d just bought, and took her to his place. As a bonus, he managed to locate some anti-fouling paint for her bottom. I gave her two coats of this, carefully taping-off her bottom on one side at an estimated waterline, then using a measuring tape and my eye to transfer the same line to the other side. Besides protecting her bottom from growth on cruises, the anti-fouling paint gives her a more serious profile. I would consider the addition of a waterline stripe to separate the topsides from the anti-fouling at some point.

              Life got int he way again after that, but she's waiting patiently in the yard for me now to give her deck and interior the same treatment as her hull. 



Friday 22 February 2019

Provenance



 It may be worth letting you know how Eurydice came to me, and in what form. She wasn’t always the promisingly pretty girl she is now, with her blackened bottom and gleaming blue topsides. We’ve actually been together a long time – about a third of my life at the time of writing this – and we've each grown a lot during that time.
            I was 21 years old when my friend Greg (more on him in a future post) bought two sailboats; one an derelict fiberglass albacore that had been used to train sea-cadets and been auctioned-off, and the other an antique wooden lightning. A night of drinking at his house led to an offer of trade – a gun I owned in return for the albacore. I shook on it immediately and showed-up the next day to inspect my new acquisition (and remind him of the deal, in case the memory of it had worn off with the fumes).
            Being somewhat of a vagrant at the time, I didn’t have anywhere to store the boat, but Greg graciously let me keep it at his house. It was several years before I had a stable housing situation, and my first priority was loading the 15 foot boat into the seven-foot bed of a pickup and driving it home. This earned us a few strange looks as we passed through town, more boat off of the truck than on it.
            I returned to university and a new period of languishing began for Eurydice, but I gave her my attention when I could. First came the sails; there were several tears and holes that needed work. I bought a sheet of sail-tape and followed Greg’s instructions – he used some on his lightning’s sails too, and it worked very wonders on those. I hope Eurydice's sails draw half so well. 
            Next came the foils; and old wooden rudder came with the boat, but no tiller or centerboard. The rudder was fine after a couple coats of varnish. I had an ash stave on hand that I’d been planning to use for a bow, but it turned out to be equally suited as a tiller. 

             The centerboard was a bigger issue, however. Greg managed to locate a pattern from a friend of his, and he cut its shape out of a piece of plywood. After examining photographs and schematics online, I used a hand-plane and a palm-sander to reduce the plywood to what I hope are its proper dimensions. The result is a centerboard that’s probably too fine and sharp for its intended purpose. I tried to fiberglass this and mostly made a mess, but ten coats of marine-grade spar varnish sealed it up nicely. A coat of white paint will make it look even sharper.
             For the centerboard's pivot-point, I cut a length of copper pipe so it extended an eighth of an inch on either side of the hole, then peened-over the edges to create a sort of bushing. Hopefully this prevents the wood from wearing where the axle will pass through it. 

            Her hull was where the real work began, and I’ll get into that in the next post. It’s winter now, and the snow is laying on her deck in much the same way the white paint it going to lay on her in a couple months.


Wednesday 13 February 2019

Setting Sail


“And therefore I have sailed the seas and come
To the holy city of Byzantium.”

William Butler Yeats sailed to a shining symbolic city without ever leaving the recesses of his imagination. I intend to sail there for real.
            In the Summer of 2021, a childhood friend and I will bisect the Mediterranean from Gibraltar to Istanbul in a small, open boat. That gives me two years to become a proficient in small-boat sailing and navigation. This blog is to document my preparations before sailing to Byzantium.
            Luckily, I’ve got a solid background at sea, knowledgeable friends (with sailboats of their own), a 15 foot sailing dinghy I’m in the process of rebuilding, unlimited access to the ocean, free time, and salt water in my veins.
            My first priority is getting Eurydice, my modified albacore dinghy, into the water. I’ve already sanded, filled and patched her hull, mended her sails, built a tiller and centerboard, bought new standing rigging and augmented her old hardware. I still have to sand, patch and paint her deck and interior, add reef points to her sails and install oarlocks in her gunwales. These last changes are to augment her racing pedigree by having having her able to be de-powered and rowed. As a racer, she’s not an ideal dinghy for cruising – but she’ll be an unforgiving sailing coach.
            With Eurydice in the water in the Spring, I’ll have the rest of the season to sail. By mid-summer I intend to do some short cruises, starting with day-trips and then some weekends. If everything goes well, I’ll finish the summer with a multi-day coastal cruise.
            For now, though, it’s boat-building.